Saturday, June 27, 2009

Arwana Red chili and Red Blood comes from the waters of Kalimantan
West, namely from the Kapuas River and Lake Sentarum. These
is a forest area of turf to create the environment for primitive
these ancient fish. However, the condition of mineral, water environment turf
(black water), and the number of adequate food reserves have been
mengkondisikan both of which influence the evolution of color on the fish
concerned. The influence of geography is also cause tercipatanya
different variations of the morphology of fish, such as body
more wide, spoon-shaped head, red warnah a more intensive,
color and a more concentrated basis.

Name Red chili and Red Blood given based on the view
intensity of color appears. Red chilli color display shows
color of fruit such as chili, while the red blood showed
look like the color of blood. In terms of physical, Arwana Red chili
have the form of tuebuh wider, while Arwana Red Blood more
long and more slender. Red chili wide body to remain relatively
base of the tail, while the Red Blood appear in narrow
gradual. Besides, the Red Cabe tend to have the head shape
spoon, a frame with a thick shell. Red chili also
characterized with a red eye color and width, with the tails of
shaped diamond (diamond). Because the breadth of this Red chili,
sometimes his eyes as if touching the fringe of the top of the head and
the lower jaw. While the Red Blood-eyed white and more
smaller, and has a fan-shaped tail.

The physical morphology above dudah visible at the time of the Arwana
are still small, so that it can be used for early penciri
distinguish them when young. Besides, the young Red chili
tend to have basic green color with a dense metallic sheen,
while the Red Blood sheen has weaker and tend to like
RTG with the young. Red Blood young body also appear more rounded
compared with the young Red chili.

The development of color between red chili and Red Blood also known
different. Red chilli color growth slower than the
growth in the color Blood Red. Difference in achieving full red
This can be between 1 to 2 years. Although the achievement of full red color
different stages of development but will be relatively the same color.
Usually they will transition through the color orange. Some events
Arwana not show a little red color that have this fixed
blanch until 8 years, then changed to red in the full
within 1 month.

Not easy to surmise that in the potential Arwana red. Required
patience and a little business that is not to determine the potential
from a Arwana red. However, with the experience and
patience it will be done.

Green Arowana

Arwana green is another type of Arwana commonly found in
Thailand, Malaysia, Myanmar, Komboja, and also in some places in the
Indonesia. Penampakan and color variations may be found in
each region. However in general it can be said
that, in general, gray verdure dangan pattern lines
dark color on the tail. The head and mouth, bigger and more
rounded than the other types of Arwana asia.

Merupakan verietas dari arwana golden dan sering disebut sebagai Arwana
Golden Indonesia (Indonesian Golden Arwana). Verietas ini dijumpai di
daerah Pekan Baru, Sumatera. Berbeda dengan Cross Back Golden (CBG),
warna "emas" pada verietas ini tidak akan berkembang hingga melewati
punggung. Warna emas pada umumnya hanya akan mencapai baris ke empat
sisik (baris sisik dihitung dari bawah, perut), atau lebih baik bisa
mencapai baris ke lima. Seperti halnya verietas cross back, warna dasar
sisik RTG bisa biru, hijau, atau emas. Begitu pula dengan warna bibir,
ekor, dan sirip, kedua varietas ini memiliki keragaan yang sangat mirip.
RTG muda memiliki warna lebih kusam dibandingkan dengan varietas cross
back muda.

RTG boleh dikatakan lebih tahan banting dibandingkan dengan saudaranya,
CBG, dapat tumbuh lebih besar, dan juga lebih agresif. Jumlahnya di alam
relatif lebih banyak dibandingkan dengan CBG, meskipun demikian tetap
merupakan varietas yang dilindungi CITES.

Golden varieties cross back is part of the golden variety Arwana.
Variety is found in different places in Malaysia, such as Silver,
Trengganu, Bukit Merah Lake and Johor. Therefore, they often
given in accordance with the nickname origin, such as: Golden Pahang,
Bukit Merah Blue, Gold Malaysian etc.. Referred to as a cross back, because
This variety will have a gold pass to full back,
at the time of adult fish.

This variety are rare, so the price is relatively more expensive
compared with other varieties. Even can be said is
varieties with the highest price.

Depending on the color scale basis, CBG can be classified manjadi
Purple-Based (basic color purple), Blue-Based (basic blue color), Gold
Based (basic colors of gold), and Silver-Based (silver color base). Arwana
Gold with a gold base color can be reached on the full color
age younger than the other varieties.

Red Arowana

Arwana Arwana red varieties are coming from various places
in West Kalimantan Province, such as from the Kapuas River and Lake
Sentarum. Second place is known as the habitat of the Super Red (Chili
and Blood Red).



Red is full will be visible on the young fin fish, in the mouth and
also mustache. The adult, the color red will appear next is
in various other body parts, especially cheek (gill cover) and
marginal scale, so the fish will have a whole show
effect of red.

Basically, the red Arwana grouped in 4 varieties, the Red
Blood (Blood Red), Red chili (Chili Red), Red-Orange (Orange Red),
Red and Gold (Golden Red). The four varieties is generally given
nickname Super Red Red or First Grade (First Grade Red), although
Therefore in the growth of super red refers more to the Red
Chili and Red Blood. While the two varieties more often in the last
as the super red with a lower grade.

Friday, June 12, 2009

How to Clean a Koi Pond

1. Take a fine mesh net and attempt to net out debris from the water. If the water has a foul, rotten egg odor when you start, stop. You will need a kiddie pool with a net cover and either an air stone or small pump to oxygenate the water. You will have to remove the fish to the temporary container while you drain the pond and remove debris. Make sure the water in the kiddie pool is dechlorinated. Net the fish and place them in a large bowl that will float on the water of the kiddie pool. Cover the bowl with a towel and let it float or hold it in the water for 15 to 20 minutes (with an air stone) for the fish to be acclimated to the water. Then, place the fish into the kiddie pool with a netted cover and an airstone or pump while you clean the pond.

2. If the pond does not have foul rotten egg smell, use a net to take out debris on the bottom. Drain about 25 percent of the water and refill it using a dechlorinator. Tap water is about 50 degrees, so add water slowly to acclimate fish to the temperature change. Use an airstone or small pump to oxygenate the water.

3. During the next day, drain another 25 percent of the water and refill it using the same technique while removing debris you missed.

* Check the debris in the net and remove any snails, dragon fly larvae, or other critters to be placed back into the pond. (wikiHow.com)

Tips by WikiHow.com
1. Buy a tank suited to the quantity and size of your fish, with the equipment they need to survive: A filter and (for tropicals) a heater.
2. Cycle your tank before adding any fish
3. Only add one or two fish at a time, so the filter can adapt to the additional bioload.
4. When you get the fish don't just let it into your tank. Use proper acclimation methods. Just floating the bag doesn't help, either. Although this brings the temperature of water in the bag to the temperature of the tank, it doesn't do anything about other factors, such as nitrate and pH levels. Replace the water in the bag with water from the tank in small amounts over an hour or so.
5. For more delicate species, a slower acclimation process is required.
6. Feed the fish in small amounts. Always feed your fish daily.
7. Perform regular maintenance weekly or as needed.

Are your fish about ready to pack up and move to cleaner waters? Afraid of cleaning the tank because the last time you did it, the fish had clean water, but died from the shock of it all? Make your fish tank shine and your fish happy with this simple procedure!

  1. Decide how much water you will replace and prepare that much replacement water in a clean container. Add dechlorinator according to the package instructions. You can buy dechlorinator at any pet store. Testing kits for other water in the tank, if at all possible. Used correctly, the aquarium siphon will not harm them. However, if you must remove the fish, fill a clean bowl/container with some water from the tank you are going to clean. This keeps the fish in familiar water and reduces shock. Then, gently remove the fish from the dirty tank with an aquarium net, and put them in the new container with the water.
  2. If you have a buildup of moss on tank walls, then use an aquarium sponge or clean, soap-free cloth to loosen it now. Some people leave this alone, as it is preferable to green water and provides food for many fish. Removing plankton from green water requires an old or expensive filter.
  3. Maintain your filter in staggered fashion to your water. When you change your filter, don't change your water. When you change your water, don't change your filter.
  4. If you will change your filter now, too, keep at least some of the media inside the filter intact: it contains beneficial bacteria that help break down the ammonia that the fish produce. For example, if your filter has a sponge in it and a charcoal pack, replace the charcoal and keep the sponge.
  5. Use an aquarium vacuum/siphon to suck out a maximum of 50% of the tank water. If possible, though, keep up with water changes and change only 10% to 20% of the water per week. This rate can climb as high as one third per day in persistent, threatening turbidity. Push the end of the vacuum down into the gravel and move it around. Aim for any visible debris. Generally, the vacuum will take up the debris and the gravel will fall back to the bottom.
  6. Rinse decorative items (plants, rocks, etc.) that were in the tank with clean, room temperature water if they appear to need it.
  7. Scrub the tank with new sponge, towel, or other type of cleaning cloth (be sure that whatever you use

Tips

  • The most important part of cleaning the tank is keeping the water temperature constant. Fish die, usually, from the shock of going from warm to cold water.
  • Put the fish into small plastic air tight bags half filled with old tank water when taking them out to clean the tank. When you've cleaned it, float the bags with the fish in them in the tank for 15-20 minutes. This will ensure that the water temperature is the same in both the bag and the tank.
  • Frequent, small water changes are better for your fish than infrequent, large ones, since abrupt changes in water chemistry or temperature can shock fish.
  • You can pick up a plastic tank siphon at any pet shop or even a discount store.
  • Rinse everything that is going back in to the tank completely, to remove any algae, slime, etc.
  • Change carbon according to the instructions (or don't even use it at all), since old carbon can leak poisons back into the tank.
  • Act fast, as the fish in the bowl are running out of air. If they are breathing air from the surface constantly, put the air hose in the bowl.
  • Live plants cost a bit more than their plastic counterparts, but they can help to keep the aquarium chemistry balanced and healthy.
  • Avoid putting too many fish or fish that are too large in a small tank. They will crowd each other and produce waste too quickly.
  • Do not overfeed your fish. 1 flake per fish, per day. It's bad for the fish and excess, uneaten food can contribute to the production of harmful ammonia.
  • Consider getting your tank a cleaning crew. Shrimp are natural cleaners, eating algae, dropped food, and other debris, plus they're fun to watch. Various bottom-feeding fish perform similar roles. Snails also scavenge, but they can be a bit messy and some types can reproduce prolifically. These critters won't do your job for you, but they can help keep the tank healthy in between cleanings. Ask at a good pet or aquarium store or look them up online.

Warnings

  • Never use cleaners, soap, or chemicals to clean your fish tank, and use a unused cloth/sponge. They will remain on the tank, and get into the water--and then you can kiss your fish bye-bye. Even one drop is enough to kill.
  • Do not attempt to move a full fish tank. Nothing special should remain in water that you polluted with little bottles of magic potion. That much water is very heavy and the seams could fail. Move it two weeks before your next scheduled change of filter, and dump about four fifths of it. (www.wikipedia.com)

Other Tips

How to Make Fry Food Out of Fish Food

  • Place some flakes/pellets in a plastic ziploc bag
  • Close the bag
  • Crush the food until it turns into a fine powder
  • Feed sparingly
  • Try to add different types of food high in protein into the mixture
  • If the powder is too big the fry won't eat it. In this case, go buy some specialized fry food.


Try pairing up females and males who have a particular color or fin pattern you like, to get nice looking fry.
  • If male does not impregnate female, try placing your ugliest male guppy in a seperate jar and place the jar next to the breeding tank. this should result in the chosen male to impregnate the female once he realizes there is competition. if this does not work, you might have to choose a different guppy to breed

Breeding Guppy

  1. Get at least two female guppies per one male guppy, keeping them separate until you are ready for them to breed.
  2. Set up a 5 gallon tank with a heater and gentle filter.
    • This tank should not have any substrate at the bottom. A bare bottom tank is good for baby fry so that you can clean it easily, as well as keep a tally on how many guppies are alive or how much they are eating.
    • Java moss or spawning mops provides a nice hiding spot for guppy fry
    • Guppy fry tend to sink, so use low-floating plants for their cover.
  3. Place the fish in the five gallon tank with similiar condition(temperature, etc.) as the tank they were in before.
    • Set the temperature to around 80 degrees F while the females and male are in the tank together. You should also give them food with higher nutritional value to get them in the breeding mood.
  4. Place the male back into his own tank after the female or females get pregnant. You can tell whether the female is pregnant or not by looking near her anus and seeing whether there is a dark mark in that area, called a gravid spot. All females will have this, but it becomes noticeably darker when the fry have been fertilized.
  5. Wait about three to four weeks. At this point, the female will be ready to give birth. Her stomach should be very large and her gravid spot will be black (red in paler guppies). The red/black spots you are seeing are the eyes of the baby guppies. She will give birth to live guppy babies, not eggs.
    • Some signs of labor are: being very still and secluding herself, shivering (contractions), hanging out near the heater, change in appetite. Also watch how she eats, and take note if she spits the food out again.
  6. Try to be present when she gives birth, but if you cannot be, place lots of plat and hiding spots for the fry, else the mother will eat them. When she has given birth, place her in her original tank, leaving the fry in their own tank.
  7. When the fry are born, tank temperature should be around 78 degrees F.
  8. Immediately remove all dead fry when you see them. Accumulated waste is bad for guppy fry.
  9. Feed the fry , microworms, or powdered flakes, several times a day. Remember that fry are tiny and if you place too much food in the tank, there will be too much waste.
  10. A filter is dangerous to the fry because they are likely to be sucked into it, so cover the end with tights.
  11. Siphon the tank carefully every time it gets too dirty and do 40% water changes every few days to keep the water clean. Remember that the tank should be only about half full, if you are using a five or ten gallon tank, to minimize work on your part.
  12. Move the fry when they get old enough. When the fry are a good size, or about a month and a half to two months old you may put them in a tank with non aggressive fish, sell them to your local pet store, or give them to friends as gifts. Make sure you plan out how you will get rid of all your fry, or how you will store them.

Breeding Guppy

  1. Get at least two female guppies per one male guppy, keeping them separate until you are ready for them to breed.
  2. Set up a 5 gallon tank with a heater and gentle filter.
    • This tank should not have any substrate at the bottom. A bare bottom tank is good for baby fry so that you can clean it easily, as well as keep a tally on how many guppies are alive or how much they are eating.
    • Java moss or spawning mops provides a nice hiding spot for guppy fry
    • Guppy fry tend to sink, so use low-floating plants for their cover.
  3. Place the fish in the five gallon tank with similiar condition(temperature, etc.) as the tank they were in before.
    • Set the temperature to around 80 degrees F while the females and male are in the tank together. You should also give them food with higher nutritional value to get them in the breeding mood.
  4. Place the male back into his own tank after the female or females get pregnant. You can tell whether the female is pregnant or not by looking near her anus and seeing whether there is a dark mark in that area, called a gravid spot. All females will have this, but it becomes noticeably darker when the fry have been fertilized.
  5. Wait about three to four weeks. At this point, the female will be ready to give birth. Her stomach should be very large and her gravid spot will be black (red in paler guppies). The red/black spots you are seeing are the eyes of the baby guppies. She will give birth to live guppy babies, not eggs.
    • Some signs of labor are: being very still and secluding herself, shivering (contractions), hanging out near the heater, change in appetite. Also watch how she eats, and take note if she spits the food out again.
  6. Try to be present when she gives birth, but if you cannot be, place lots of plat and hiding spots for the fry, else the mother will eat them. When she has given birth, place her in her original tank, leaving the fry in their own tank.
  7. When the fry are born, tank temperature should be around 78 degrees F.
  8. Immediately remove all dead fry when you see them. Accumulated waste is bad for guppy fry.
  9. Feed the fry , microworms, or powdered flakes, several times a day. Remember that fry are tiny and if you place too much food in the tank, there will be too much waste.
  10. A filter is dangerous to the fry because they are likely to be sucked into it, so cover the end with tights.
  11. Siphon the tank carefully every time it gets too dirty and do 40% water changes every few days to keep the water clean. Remember that the tank should be only about half full, if you are using a five or ten gallon tank, to minimize work on your part.
  12. Move the fry when they get old enough. When the fry are a good size, or about a month and a half to two months old you may put them in a tank with non aggressive fish, sell them to your local pet store, or give them to friends as gifts. Make sure you plan out how you will get rid of all your fry, or how you will store them.

Breeding Koi

If you want to breed koi, there are several basics that you need to know in order to get started. Select healthy fish of the variety you want. Although you might want to begin a new variety of koi, I suspect many of us don't know enough Japanese to properly name them.

Fish Conditioning

Koi males should be 3-5 years old, 4-6 years is the prime age group for females. Condition them for one year. Make sure they are healthy and well fed. Put them through a hibernation cycle where feeding is stopped for several months. When it is spring, "love is in the O2" for fish.

Bruce says a menage a trois is what it takes. Two males to every female should be placed in the "spawn pond" or tank. This separate area is needed to ensure genetics. When asked how to tell the difference between male and female fish, it became a hands-on presentation when Bruce scooped a male goldfish out of his tank to show the spots on the pectoral fins.

The males will develop spots, not only on the pectoral fins, but also the gill covers. They are little white spots that feel like day old beard. You may notice them chasing the females (they'll also chase males), or rubbing the female's side with their heads. This inspires the female to spawn. Females have bigger abdomens (no jokes, please) and when they are full of eggs, are notably softer.

Setting Up the Location

The fish then need several things to spawn: a place to lay their eggs (media), privacy, proper pond temperature, and water quality.

Media for goldfish can be yarn, attached to a cork that keeps it suspended in the water. For koi, there are many options, not all of them listed here. Evergreen branches can be tied together and suspended. You can grow grass on the bottom, and re-flood the pond. There are artificial media like PVC pipe with nylon rope attached and frayed.

The fry need a place to hang out when they are first hatched, literally. They cannot swim yet, so they need an area to be safe and secure. When selecting media, this needs to be considered.

Spawning temperatures for both goldfish and koi is in the upper 60s and low 70s. The eggs' incubation time is inversely proportional to this. You don't want it too high (they mature too fast and have mutations), or too low (they mature too slowly and have mutations). Bruce says sixty-eight degrees is optimal.

The breeding pond needs to have good water quality. A "springtime" effect prompts fish to spawn. Good aeration and O2 are needed. Remember the size involved here, a very fine mesh will be needed to avoid sucking small fry into your filter. After the spawning is done, an aggressive water replacement is needed. Your nose will let you know.

Most fish will spawn in the morning, between dawn and 9 o'clock. If they are disturbed, this can stop them from "doing the deed."

The Eggs

The eggs are really sticky, and will adhere well. Don't be too worried if the eggs start to grow a fungus-like substance. There are a lot of good eggs in there, too. Good eggs will be translucent. It's the unfertilized eggs that will be white and starting to grow fuzz. (olympickoiclub.org)

Friday, June 5, 2009

Black Koi

It is well understood that Koi fish come in a large variety of colors and patterns. Black Koi are set apart from other Koi varieties due to their coloring and not much else.Koi fish can live for an extended life time even living as long as two hundred years but, normally live for about twenty-five to thirty-five years of age.

They are regularly seen in outdoor ponds all over the world.Koi males can be easily recognized by their concave anal section.They may also display breeding spots on the head. Spawning may result in as many as 1,000 eggs. Baby Koi known as fry will start emerging in about four to seven days, depending on the temperature of the water.

black_koi

www.koibreedingtips.com

Amazingly their color doesn’t emerge until the fry are about three to twelve weeks of age.When the Japanese started breeding these magnificent fish from carp mutations, they only came in one or two colors.With more breeding throughout the years came more color varieties and combinations of patterns.Black Koi can grow to be about thirty-six inches in length.

Like all Koi fish because of their length, black Koi need to be kept in large ponds.The Magoi Koi species is one of the first all black mutations and can grow to very large sized.They are actually a deep bronze but they look black when viewed from above. Because of their possibilities in size, Magoi blood is being reintroduced into other species to hasten and maximize growth potential.

One Species of black Koi fish is the Karasu meaning “crow” in Japanese. The Karasu is another extremely old species. It has black fins and a black body. This species can also have a white or orange belly.Koi have a tendency to change color due to the effects of their environment or due to their diet.

These color changes typically entail the fish going from a duller or brighter shade of color.The Matsukawabake Koi species takes the ability to change color. It is a black Koi that typically has areas or white on its body. According to the temperature of the water or the seasons the color of this Koi fish can change completely.This Koi can turn completely black or completely white.

But, amazingly the Koi will return to its original pattern once the conditions change.First appearing in the 1980’s, the Kumonryu is the most popular of the black Koi species. The name means “dragon fish”. The Kumonryu received its name because some were reminded of the bodies of the dragons depicted in ancient paintings.

Some also thought that these fish looked like dragons ascending through the white clouds in the sky. Like the Matsukawabake, these Koi can also change their color.One of the attractions that draw pond owners to the Koi is the large variety of colors that they come in.

An even more attractive notion is that of having the ability to own a fish that will literally be able to change color before your eyes like some of the black Koi species can.

Koi Filter

koifilterAn extremely important thing to control when raising Koi fish is giving them the proper filtration in a pond environment.

Koi fish are more sensitive to the quality of the water then some other fish and therefore need more consideration when it comes to some of the equipment like filers.

A pond filter helps to control the biological balance in the pond system.It is the job of the filter to remove the waste that the Koi produce. In the wild fish waste is removed because of the volume of the water in the area.

Fish waste is also removed by the water’s current. When fish are in a contained environment they need to have this natural function supplied for them.

Most of the pond filters available have a mechanical and biological function. The mechanical function cleans particles from the water. Gravity and the flow of the water drag the solid waste out of the Koi’s pond water. These particles become trapped in the filter and are then cleaned out by the pond owner during the regular maintenance of the pond.

The biological filtration relies on bacteria to break down toxic waste, also known as ammonia or pH, into less harmful substances like nitrates. Nitrates are only harmful to Koi in large amounts. While it is normal to have continuous amounts of pH on a low level, pH can be harmful to Koi if it is left at a high level untreated.

A good pond filter can still not work properly without a pump to force the water through it. With a big area like a pond, the strength of the filter is not able to circulate the water on its own. The pump pushed the water and circulates it through the pond.


n addition to the pump and the filter, pond owners may want to consider adding a small fountain, a waterfall, or some other water device. It is very important to the fish to have a constant supply of oxygen in the water. Because a fountain or a waterfall stirs up the water, it allows the oxygen from the air to be folded into the water. This is known as aeration.

It is important to test the chemical make up of the water of the pond weekly. You can do this one of two ways. You can either bring a sample of the pond water to a local pet store to have them test it for you or you can purchase a home testing kit and test the water yourself. It is important to keep the chemical mixture in the water at a normal and healthy range for Koi fish.

Owning a beautiful Koi garden does not mean that it is completely maintenance free. Although the time and effort it takes to maintain the pond is minimal, it should be considered when it comes to taking on the responsibility of owning a Koi Garden. Above all, it is one of the most rewarding hobbies that anyone can have.

Feeding KoI

Koi fish are gorgeous in color and more importantly entertaining to own. Most people who own Koi will tell you that they can be trained to eat right out of your hand. Koi will recognize the person who feds them and gather around them at feeding times. With such an enjoyable creature livening up the waters of a backyard pond, how can anyone get bored?

Koi fish are omnivorous which means that they will eat a variety of foods including meat matter and plant matter. They have keen appetites dwelling in water temperatures from 61 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. During the summer months when Koi fish are the most active owners should feed their fish a good quality diet.

Koi receive their food from two sources; their owner and the environment. These fish are an opportunistic eater which means that they will eat whatever comes their way and will fit into their mouths. Koi fish will sometimes nibble on the foliage of underwater plants giving their owners a hard time.

They will also eat a variety of insects that are unlucky enough to get within their range including worms, and snails. Some owners have also reported seeing their Koi pull themselves part of the way out of the water to obtain fallen acorns or nibble on grasses.Koi will also enjoy a variety of foods offered to them by their owners.

Pond owners can offer their Koi a special treat of peas, lettuce, or even watermelons. Koi fish require the right combination of protein, fats, fiber, minerals, and vitamins. Owners can ensure that their Koi are receiving these combinations by feeding them pellet food. Most store bought pellet foods for Koi are made to float at the top of the water so the fish are forced to come to the surface.

With the Koi in view it gives the owner the perfect time to observe the fish. They can make sure they have good appetites, that they are healthy, and that they are free of injuries. A healthy diet results in vivid colors of the fish.During the winter months the digestive systems of these cold water fish slows down.

It is not necessary to feed them. They may nibble on algae at the bottom of the pond but, once the temperature goes below fifty degrees Fahrenheit, any food left in their stomachs can become rancid and cause illness to the Koi.Since Koi have such great appetites, owners do not need to put a lot of stress into how much they are being fed or the way they are being fed.

Because of this, one of the best and most relaxing parts of the day for a Koi pond owner is when it is time to feed their fish.Owners take pleasure in the Koi’s willingness to interact with them and see their fish in a different way. While, it is true that Koi need a balanced diet, when it comes to food, it is all fun and games. (www.koibreedingtips.com)